This is your essential guide to staining wood for projects both large and small.
The time required and total cost of the project will vary depending on the size, surface area, and type of wood you’re staining. A typical can of wood stain will cost $15–$50 per gallon, and projects can take anywhere from an hour to a full day.
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Types of stains
There are two types of wood stain—oil-based and water-based.
Oil-based stains take longer to dry than water-based stains do, so they allow you to work for longer. If this is your first staining project, an oil-based stain will make it less likely that your coats will be uneven. Also, oil-based stains won’t raise the grain on the wood, so you won’t need to worry about sanding the finish.
Alternatively, water-based stains dry quickly. Though this ensures that you’ll finish your project faster, it also means that the stain will set more quickly. Unlike oil stains, water-based stains don’t give off strong odors or fumes and also come in a wider variety of colors not available in oil-based stains.
Woods that stain well
Wood reacts differently to certain stains. Before you begin a new project, confirm the wood type that you plan to use for your project, and match the appropriate stain to it.
- Oak—Oak is common and very popular to stain because it has large pores that absorb and retain stain well.
- Ash or chestnut—These woods are coarse-grained yet have similar pore structures to oak, so they retain stain just as well.
- Beech—This heavy, pale-colored wood won’t blotch when stained. Beech can be stained to appear similar to dark cherry, making beech a popular DIY project candidate.
- Pine—Pine performs best with a light stain or finish. The natural grain of pine is unevenly dense, so it’s best to use a pre-stain wood conditioner before staining pine.
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Hard-to-stain woods
Some types of wood possess characteristics that make them difficult to stain. Consider the above alternatives if you’re starting a project from scratch.
- Alder—While this type of wood is lightweight, it absorbs stains unevenly. Before staining, use pre-stain wood conditioner to prevent any blotchiness or uneven stain marks.
- Birch—This wood is also known to absorb stain unevenly. Use lighter stains instead of darker stains for birch, and always apply a pre-stain wood conditioner.
- Cherry—Because cherry already has a lovely, deep, dark reddish color and the pores of the wood are small, it’s not a popular option for stain.
- Mahogany—Mahogany is darker in color, making it less likely to need staining. If you stain mahogany wood, use an oil-based stain to maintain compatibility with the natural oils already found in the wood.
Step-by-step instructions: how to stain wood furniture
If you’re refurbishing an old piece of furniture, block out ample time to complete your project. There are eight critical steps to refurbishing and re-staining wood furniture.
If the furniture has minor dents, chips, or nicks, prep the surface accordingly.
- Caulk the damaged area—Apply a wood filler to the damaged space. Once you let it sit and dry, sand down the area to leave a clean, smooth surface. Proceed as you would with a pristine piece of furniture.
- Repair dents with steam—If you have minor dents in your wood, you can fix it in a couple easy steps with an iron and wet cloth.
- Use epoxy for larger flaws—Major damages can be fixed with a two-part epoxy mixture. Epoxy will dry hard without cracking, saving the aesthetic appeal of your furniture. Additionally, epoxy can be mixed with various tints to match the color of the furniture you’re fixing.
Materials
- Goggles and gloves
- Painter’s tape
- Drop cloths
- Wood conditioner
- Wood stain
- Wood finish
- Stripper for paint removal
- Sandpaper
- Dry rag
- Natural bristle paint brush (for oil-based stains)
- Synthetic paint brush (for water-based stains)
- Prepare the work area and yourself—Ensure that your work area is well-ventilated to allow fumes to escape. Place newspapers or a drop cloth on the floor and cover nearby furniture to prevent stains on other surfaces. Protect eyes and hands by wearing safety glasses and rubber gloves. You’ll also want to wear old clothes, as stains are permanent.
- Remove existing wood finish—If the furniture already has a stain or a varnish finish, remove the finish by sanding the surface until the wood is smooth and even. After sanding, wipe away dust with a dry cloth and ensure that no dust remains on the furniture. This allows the new stain to bring out the color variation in the wood.
- Test the stain—Always test your selected stain on wood scrap before staining a larger area. You’ll want to make sure the color appears as you intend. Protect parts of the furniture you don’t want to stain with painter’s tape.
- Apply stain conditioner—This step is critically important for pine, birch, alder, cherry, or mahogany furniture. Apply a thin coat of pre-stain wood conditioner with a fine paintbrush. This prevents blotchiness and uneven paint marks. You’ll need to let the conditioner set for 10–15 minutes or longer (or according to the conditioner’s directions).
- Prep the stain solution—Stir the stain thoroughly. This redistributes settled dyes or pigment throughout the stain to ensure even color throughout the mixture.
- Brush on the stain—Apply a water- or oil-based stain with a paintbrush or rag. When using a paintbrush, work with the grain of the wood to apply a nice, even coat.
- Remove excess stain—Wipe off excess stain with a rag. If you want a lighter stain, wipe off immediately, darker stains can sit for longer as long as they don’t drip.
- Use a finish—After the stain is dry—oil-based stains will take longer to dry than water-based stains—use a clean, fine-haired brush to apply a clear stain finish if desired. A clear finish will seal the color of the stain.
Step-by-step instructions: how to stain a wooden deck
Test the condition of your deck stain by dropping water on the surface. If the water soaks into the wood and does not bead up, then your deck needs a new coat of stain.
Materials
- Goggles and gloves
- Drop cloths
- Painter’s tape
- Deck cleaning solution
- Wood stain
- Wood finish
- Stripper for paint removal
- Flooring sander
- Dry rag
- Garden hose or pressure washer
- Natural bristle paint brush (for oil-based stains)
- Synthetic paint brush (for water-based stains)
- Prepare the work area—Clean your deck with a hose or power washer and a cleaning solution two or three days prior to beginning your project. Remove all items from the deck and sweep away any debris. Clean between the slats and ensure all holes have been fixed. Cover nearby plants, windows, and walls with plastic (securing with painter’s tape) to protect them from stain splatter.
- Sand the deck—Use a floor sander or palm sander to sand the deck in the direction of the grain, sanding down splinters or uneven areas. Wear safety goggles and a face mask to protect yourself from debris.
- Prep the stain solution—Stir the stain thoroughly to ensure that dyes and pigments are evenly distributed. Test the stain on a small area to ensure it’s the color you’re expecting.
- Apply the stain—Working from one end of the deck to the other (make sure you can get off the deck without walking on fresh stain). Apply the stain in thin, even layers to get an even color. If a second coat is necessary, wait for the first coat to dry before applying.
- Allow the deck to dry completely—Stain will take about 48 hours to completely dry. Make sure the stain has dried before uncovering plants, walls and windows, and before putting back any furniture.
More tips for wood-staining projects
Never mix oil- and water-based stains. While it’s possible to mix two colors of stain to make a custom color, only do so if made by the same manufacturer. Ask a home improvement store pro before mixing two colors.
A water-based finish can be put over an oil-based stain, but only after waiting a full 24 hours. As most stains don’t include a finish in their solution, you’ll want to apply a finish to the material after 24 hours or as the instructions of your stain product recommend to lock in and seal the color of the stain.
